How to navigate around London Underground

How to navigate around London Underground:
Use a map of the underground to note which line your starting station is on (the easiest way is to note the colour).
If they are two different lines, make a note of where they cross which is where you will need to change trains.
Work out which direction you will need to travel in (ie eastbound, westbound, northbound or southbound) OR make a note of the station name at the end of your destination line.
Then note which line your destination station is on.
Signs and maps situated at the entrance to each station or each line will tell you which line you should take, with the stations marked on them. These will be colour coded according to the line colours on the underground map.
Make a note of how many stations there are until your stop, then get on the appropriate train and count the stops until you have to get off!

“Don't go here! They will try to cheat you!”

They came top in three out of four categories, including not ... How low can anyone sink when you try and cheat small cafe owners and taxi..

I would not recommend you to come this place. The surprise will come once you got the bill. We had things which we don't order and the quantities where wrong. At the end we couldn't do anything other than pay it.
Be careful, the prices are for 100g, not the whole dish!
London, United Kingdom
This was my first restaurant in Romania. All I had were American dollars, and after some discussion between the staff, it was agreed that they would accept my money. That was nice, I guess, but the service after that was a little less than mediocre. The desserts were best skipped, but I judge a restaurant on main courses, and pastry shops on desserts. We were seated at a small table next to a lot of foot traffic, so I always felt like we were in the way, or being observed from above by many patrons and staff. The place had lots of little nooks and crannies where we might have had more intimacy, but we didn't get reservations, so we got what we got.

The food was very good, and my first realization that Romanian "crap" has nothing to do with poop, but rather how they spell "carp". Unlike many Romanian restaurants that possess interesting ambience, the food here was better than mediocre.

“When they try to cheat tourists...”

We only went to this place to have a coffee at the bar and paid it 2.50 € each (other coffees in Paris costed 0.95 - 1.20 €). They said it's the price written in the carte but we didn't see it, and anyway they made us pay as we had table service but we didn't! I think it's not honest from them and I'm happy we didn't have dinner there.
The worst part was not that they added 13,50€ to the bill of a lunch for 2, but how terribly they treated us when we complained about it. We ordered a dish of calamaris to share, spaghetti with clams and risotto with seafood. When we asked for the bill, we saw that the price of each of the main dishes had been increased in 2€ and that there were 2 dishes of calamaris instead of the single starter we had ordered, so double of the price indicated in the menu. The waiter accepted without apologising that the price of the main dishes was incorrect but refused to let us pay just the starter we had ordered because we had already eaten it. This after having tried to convince us, with no success, that in fact they had already discounted one of the portions because the whole price of the calamaris would have been 36€. The menu clearly indicated "calamari fritti 9.50." No comments. Then the waiter invited me to go to the hall to meet "il direttore" if I still was not happy with the amount to pay. It was later when I understood how this allowed the director to shout at me and insult me without disturbing the rest of the clients. However, I'm sure everybody heard how he called me "stronza maleducata" while he yelled "when I travel in Spain, I pay what they ask me to" (I'm Spanish.) I decided then to ask for the complaints book. This only made things even worse, with the director holding one of my arms, his other hand raised and shouting at me if I was trying to eat for free. The waiter was also extremely disrespectful to us, saying lovely things as "who do you think you are to complain" and "if you don't have enough money to pay just leave." The funny thing is that before we could even imagine the terrible scene we would have to suffer, we had already regretted having chosen this place for lunch as the food was too salty to be enjoyed and the decoration really tacky, with pictures of old fashion landscapes and plastic flowers among other beautiful details.
My worst experience so far in a restaurant and the only bad incident I had in my, apart from this disturbing episode, wonderful holidays in Sardinia.

Patagonian Expedition Race 2012: stepping into a world of ice

Patagonian Expedition Race 2012: stepping into a world of ice

It’s been seven days since a total of 19 teams set off into the far south of Chilean Patagonia, and through a mix of settled weather, good preparation, dogged persistence and scenic inspiration, a surprising number are still racing through the wilderness.

Traditionally, between 30 and 50 per cent of participating teams usually finish the annual Patagonian Expedition Race, and its always the closing stages when the going really gets tough. This year it's also where it course is at its most spectacular.
This year the route has taken participants into the Cordillera Darwin, in the south of Chilean Tierra del Fuego, and the names of the different checkpoints offered a hint at the terrain: Paso de las Nieves (Passage of the Snow), El Turbal (The Peat Bog) and Paso Glaciar (Glacier Passage).


Previous editions of the race have seen racers steered through the far Western fjords, around the mighty pointed peaks of Torres del Paine and all the way down to the spiky summits of the world’s southernmost trekking routes on Isla Navarino.
With 245 miles – more than two thirds of the overall journey – already clocked up, it would be easy to think that the remaining 106 miles would be considered the home straight. But when you’re greeted by some of the most remote landscapes on the planet, that’s simply not the case.

Since Friday night, the leading team, which includes Briton Nick Gracie, has been setting a strong pace, despite the varied and difficult terrain.

At the Paso de las Nieves, recent snowfall created some interesting trekking conditions, to go with cool temperatures at up to 2,000 metres, while El Turbal, a spectacular wild peat bog which glows bright orange, is equally challenging. Firm and well structured to the touch, it appears to be safe ground until you step on it – if the ground is wet, you'll find yourself sinking fast. American racer Chelsey Gribbon is so short she admitted concerns about drowning in El Turbal when she took on her first race two years ago.

Peru cruise: eating up the Amazon

Peru cruise: eating up the Amazon

In the observation deck of the M/V Aria, the most opulently-appointed cruise ship on the Amazon, there is less appetite than usual for the communal Jacuzzi. Passengers would normally be immersing themselves in the cool, clear water to soak away the heat and humidity of this spot, close to the equator, where the Marañon and Ucayali rivers meet. Today they have formed a huddle round the tub, but no one has ventured in and, on closer inspection, I can see why.

Not only is it filled with muddy river water that smells faintly of methane, but the surface is broken every few minutes by a gargantuan fish. "It's a paiche," says Victor Coelho, one of four naturalist guides on board, leaping into the Jacuzzi in his shorts to wrestle with the prehistoric leviathan and to present it for a photo opportunity. "The paiche is at the top of the food chain and has a bony tongue to rake in smaller fish. Like a mammal, it has to surface every five or 10 minutes for oxygen. A large fish could feed a family for a week."
On the 147ft-long Aria and its sister ship the Aqua, both operated by Aqua Expeditions, gastronomy is high on the agenda. Last September the Aria hosted Ferran Adrià, of El Bulli fame, with Gastón Acurio – the chef who, seven years ago, took Peruvian cuisine to new heights and has promoted it worldwide in his 33 restaurants. Both were in Lima for Mistura, South America's biggest food festival, along with René Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen.

This one will feed 32 passengers at a dinner showcasing the talents of five top chefs, among them Nobu Matsuhisa – owner of more than 30 restaurants worldwide, including two in London with a Michelin star each – and Yoshihiro Murata, arguably the most influential chef in Japan. His Kikunoi restaurant in Kyoto has three Michelin stars while Roan Kikunoi (also in Kyoto) and Akasaka Kikunoi (in Tokyo) have two stars each. In Peru for a conference, they have been invited to cook on board by Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, the Aria's executive chef, himself dubbed "South America's Heston Blumenthal" for his use of esoteric ingredients both here and at Malabar, his acclaimed restaurant in Lima.
One day they might release baby turtles back into the wild, the next they might visit a sanctuary for manatees, seal-like river mammals. They arrive back in time for a rain shower in their air-conditioned, Italian-styled suite, followed by a pisco sour (grape brandy, lime juice, sugar, egg white), elegantly mixed by Robinson the bartender, and a sumptuous Peruvian feast.
In the mornings and afternoons, passengers set out on motorised skiffs with the Aria's naturalist guides – all local – to fish for piranhas and spot pink river-dolphins, caimans, iguanas, monkeys, bats, sloths and a bewildering variety of birds in the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve west of Iquitos, the main city in the Peruvian rainforest.

Away from the desk: Philip Johnston (and John Major) in Colombia

Away from the desk: Philip Johnston (and John Major) in Colombia
Yopal must be among the more unlikely destinations for the visit of a British prime minister. It was to what was then a sleepy cattle town in the province of Casanare, in Colombia, that John Major travelled 20 years ago this summer, accompanied by the usual posse of political correspondents (of whom I was one) and by enough military hardware to fight a small war. In fact, getting caught up in a small war was exactly what we feared: Colombia in the early Nineties was a pretty unstable country even by South American standards. Not only were the drug traffickers armed to the teeth but a rebel outfit called the National Liberation Army had a few days earlier fought a pitched battle with Colombian troops just 50 miles from Yopal.

More than that, we were travelling with César Gaviria, then the Colombian president, whose crackdown on both the Cali drug cartel and the guerrillas had made him a must-kill target for both, which is why a detachment of marines had come along for the ride. So, an invitation for one of the British reporters to fly from the capital, Bogotá, to Yopal in El Presidente's official plane did not exactly trigger a rush of volunteers. We drew lots – the loser went with the president; the rest of us took the bus.
Travelling with a prime minister is an experience that makes it hard ever again to fly with the hoi polloi. An official minibus and a fleet of cars transports the PM's entourage directly to the VIP suite; there is no queuing at the check-in or passport control and no security searches. Even though the press effectively paid for the whole trip, we were pretty much regarded as economy-class passengers, certainly in terms of importance. But the one compensation was that the food and service on board the prime ministerial plane were always of the highest standard. More Krug champagne with your beluga caviar, sir? Oh, if you insist.

So what had brought us there? A few weeks earlier, Major had won a general election victory against the odds and what better way to celebrate than to play the role of statesman far from the trials and tribulations of domestic politics? Prime ministers are, by nature, a suspicious bunch and tend not to like being out of the country for long in case their colleagues start plotting. But this trip was a glorious exception: it would last seven days and take in the United States, Colombia and, finally, Brazil, where Major was to attend the Earth Summit in Rio de Janeiro.

India by rail

India by rail in 2012
The train judders to a halt and jolts me out of deep sleep. I peer out of the carriage window into the foggy night. On the final leg of a 2,300-mile railway journey across India, we have pulled up at a station somewhere in Assam, in the north-eastern states. It is 3.05am. Under harsh overhead lights, dozens of people are sleeping on the platform, great lumpy bundles of bedding and shawls. I get up from my bunk bed, pad up the corridor of the sleeper carriage, a dark cave of snoring, and step down onto the platform.

The station signs tell me that we are at Lumding, a junction 40 miles or so south of the Brahmaputra river. Beyond the river are Bhutan and Tibet; to the west is Bangladesh; to the east, Burma. It’s the far frontier of the Indian railway network.

Half-asleep fellow passengers fill their plastic water bottles from platform taps or drink tea poured from huge chrome kettles by wide-awake “chai wallahs”. Stray dogs dart past, scavenging for food.

Slowly the great caterpillar of carriages pulls off and we clamber back aboard. My wife, Clare, is still sleeping peacefully in the top bunk, unaware of Lumding, and I’m soon lulled back to sleep by the lumbering rhythm of train-on-track, train-on-track.
Clare and I have been trundling across India for 10 days. We started at the most westerly station on the regular passenger network – Okha in the state of Gujarat, 100 miles down the coast from Pakistan – and will soon be pulling into Ledo, the network’s most easterly station, a tiny Assamese town of tea gardens and coal mines. We could have done the bulk of this journey on one train, the Dwarka Express, but it runs only on Fridays. It sets off from Okha at just before noon and, 2,000 miles later, pulls into Guwahati, the capital of Assam, on Monday morning. Sixty-seven hours at an average speed of 30mph. We love Indian trains, but not that much.

Australia and Pacific

Australia and Pacific
Your visit to Melbourne is probably more likely to be dictated by an event – the Australian Open, the Comedy Festival or a new exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria – than the climate, which is notoriously changeable; locals say that Melbourne has “four seasons in the same day”. Just remember that winters here (June to August) can be bitterly cold, so wrap up.

Birthplace of Australian Rules Football, host of the 1956 Olympic Games, home of both the Australian Open and the Australian Grand Prix, Melbourne can rightly claim to be the sportiest city in a country where sport is the only true religion.

The Melbourne Cup may indeed be the horse race that “stops a nation” but the same could also be said of the traditional Boxing Day Test at the “G” (the Melbourne Cricket Ground) – or indeed, the AFL Grand Final when 100,000 fans pack the stands. Despite this obsession with sport, Melbourne is not a one-dimensional society.

Even Sydneysiders – its sternest critics – now concede that Melbourne has a superior restaurant and bar scene. The southern capital also sets the pace when it comes to fashion, theatre, design and architecture. It’s also quite funny. Remember a certain housewife superstar who hailed from Moonee Ponds?
Victoria is also Australia’s most compact state, which means the Great Ocean Road, the Yarra Valley and Phillip Island with its fairy penguins are right on the doorstep. So, after decades of playing second fiddle to Sydney, “Marvellous Melbourne” is recovering its lustre, with a thrusting city skyline, a new entertainment precinct and a pulsating Docklands area.

Stuffy? Old-fashioned? Nonsense. Caffeine-fuelled, sports-mad and outward looking, Melbourne is unquestionably Australia’s most exciting and diverse metropolis. Go now.
When to go?

Unlike Perth, Sydney and the Gold Coast, Melbourne has not given its soul to the beach. Theatre, fine food and competitive sport are really the dominant forces here – not the changing seasons.

Vietnam: ethnic tourism among the valleys with no name

Vietnam in 2012: ethnic tourism among the valleys with no name
A typhoon had blown in during the day. White rain clouds lay like a boiling sea in the valleys, creating the illusion that the twisting mountain pass was an ocean road. As our vehicle turned a blind corner we came across a gaggle of motorcyclists, caped against the rain and gawping over the edge.

A lorry had gone over while overtaking another lorry, trusting to a hard shoulder that had gone soft in the rain. Through the clouds we saw that the plummeting vehicle had ploughed a vertical groove of red earth in the sheer mountainside. Its roof was visible, a couple of hundred feet below.
Most live in rural areas, growing rice, practising slash-and-burn farming, keeping animals, making handicrafts, worshipping their ancestors and believing in spirits. Many still wear their distinctive, traditional dress – or at least the women do; men tend to go for the easy option and wear Western clothes these days – and this is part of what makes them especially intriguing and attractive to foreigners. Market days, when different groups come together in a throng of colour and noise, are thrilling spectacles.

Incredibly, the driver had just been hauled up alive and whisked off to hospital. As the men continued to stare, a woman in a beautiful and strange costume strode away from the scene as if in disgust. She was the reason we had come to this remote, mountainous region in the north of Vietnam, just 50 miles from the Chinese border. Her distinctive look – black tunic and trousers embroidered with red-and-white patterned panels, red scarf and headdress – marked her out as a member of the Dao ethnic minority, one of 54 ethnic groups in Vietnam.

The Viets are the biggest group, accounting for 86 per cent of the population and dominating mainstream culture. To varying extents, the remaining minorities lead marginalised lives, both culturally and geographically.

La Résidence, Hué, Vietnam: hotel review

La Résidence, Hué, Vietnam: hotel review 2012
Overview

This former residence of the French envoy in colonial days is the place to stay in the city of Hué in central Vietnam. Hué is steeped in history, from the days of the imperial court to the Vietnam War, and La Résidence is perfectly located for getting around yet also nicely secluded. It was fully refurbished in 2011, when new wings were added. The 30m saltwater pool next to the river is fabulous and the spa is also first class (try the Monticelli mud wrap).

Location 8/10

Next to the Perfume River, on the opposite bank from the Citadel and the Imperial City (based on the Forbidden City in Beijing), within a pleasant riverbank stroll of the town.
La Résidence, in the Vietnamese city of Hué, resembles a landlocked ocean liner of the Twenties, says Nigel Richardson.

With 122 rooms and suites, La Résidence prides itself on being a boutique hotel. Rooms feature dark wood, silks, Art Deco features and Wi-Fi, and most have views across the river to the Citadel. The Resident Suite, on the top floor of the old governor's house, has a wonderful rooftop terrace with river views and isn't extortionate, at £235 per night.
Food & drink 7/10

Most tourists eat in town but if you feel like splashing out, Le Parfum restaurant – a stunning setting of black lacquer, old photos and tropical plants – offers high-quality French and Asian fusion dishes: rice rolls (about £3), duck foie gras (£12), Australian beef tenderloin (£18). Elsewhere on the ground floor, Le Gouverneur Bar sprawls rather and lacks intimacy.

Direct flights bring Vietnam closer for British travellers

Direct flights bring Vietnam closer for British travellers
From Thursday, Vietnam Airlines will begin twice-weekly services between Gatwick and Hanoi and the same number between Gatwick and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon). The flights will take approximately 12 hours, cutting several hours off the journey to Vietnam – until now only possible via regional hubs such as Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong.

Vietnam and neighbouring Cambodia and Laos have been attracting a growing number of British visitors since opening up to tourists some two decades ago. Last year, 80,000 Britons visited Vietnam, exploring the Mekong Delta and Halong Bay by boat, heading to the hills of Sapa, engaging with the legacy of the Vietnam War and relaxing on one of the country’s many beaches. Cambodia, home to the Angkor Wat temple complex, drew some 103,000 British visitors. Laos attracts those looking for a more laid-back atmosphere, beautiful scenery and the Buddhist charms of Luang Prabang.

“In Vietnam itself most people travel from one end of the country to the other, taking in all the different highlights along the way. With these new flights it will be possible to fly into Hanoi and out of Ho Chi Minh City – or vice versa.”

“For travellers wanting to explore south-east Asia, this new route will make things much easier and should mean one less flight at each end of the journey,” said Natalie Lewis of Audley Travel, a company that began as a south-east Asia specialist 15 years ago.

Vietnam: a view from the train

Vietnam: a view from the train
It is one minute to 7pm at the main railway station in central Hanoi. The relaxed bustle of boarding is complete, and a palpable air of expectation hangs over platform 1. An electric bell rings, the locomotive hoots impatiently. Outside each carriage door, a uniformed attendant looks nervously up and down the train, holding a lantern aloft and waiting for the off.

From the station loudspeakers, a last urgent call in staccato Vietnamese fills the warm night air. As the second hand sweeps towards the 12, the attendants step smartly up into the train, removing the numbers hung outside their carriage doors. One long blast and one short toot on the horn, a muted hiss from the brakes, and train SE1 glides gently off into the night on its 33-hour, 1,070-mile journey to Vietnam's second city, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
This is the celebrated "Reunification Railway", a steel artery running the length of Vietnam. It was completed in 1936 in what was then French Indo-China, and its trains ran for 18 short years before the French pulled out and the country split into North and South. Hanoi station is still visibly a French colonial building, despite its stark concrete central section, an ugly reminder of a direct hit by American bomb in December 1972.
Not until 1976 did the north-south trains resume, and four or five air-conditioned trains now link Hanoi, Vinh, Hué, Da Nang, Nha Trang and Saigon every day, providing affordable and relatively comfortable transport for locals and visitors alike.
I had last visited Vietnam more than a decade before, and as the SE1 raced the frenetic road traffic through the Hanoi suburbs, it seemed that every cyclist then now owned a motorbike, and every motorcyclist a car. Tourism has also boomed, and I was travelling in one of two privately run Livitrans sleeping-cars aimed at visitors, a cut above the SE1's regular "soft sleepers" but still only $59 (£38) for the 494 miles to Da Nang.

Burma: should British holiday makers visit?

Burma: should British holidaymakers visit?
Dave Cameron is to make an historic visit to Burma on Friday. Should British tourists be following in his footsteps?
David Cameron is to make an historic visit to Burma on Friday. He will become the first western leader in a generation to visit the country. His decision comes after the National League for Democracy, the party of Aung San Suu Kyi, won 43 seats in parliament in the first democratic elections for more than 50 years.

What do you think? Should tourists be following in the Prime Minister's footsteps? Is tourism to Burma ethical? Should Britons be practicing small-scale tourism to the country, rather than travelling with large tour operators? How can this be achieved?
Having previously opposed tourism to Burma, Ms Suu Kyi relaxed her position last year, and said that low-key "individual tourism" would be welcomed. Her shift in attitude was first revealed in August 2011 by Telegraph Travel. Following the announcement, visitor numbers to Burma have soared, with reports of a shortage of tour guides and hotel rooms in Rangoon (Yangon), where facilities for tourism are still rudimentary. An increasing number of package operators are adding the country to their brochures.

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Oxford city break guide

Oxford city break guide:
Oxford is an international city on an intimate scale. One minute you can be pushing through crowded shopping streets, the next diving down a serene cobbled alleyway, its ancient stone walls laced with wisteria, or stepping through one of the college gatehouses into an enclosed and enigmatic world.

Renowned throughout the world as a centre of learning, and latterly as the home of Inspectors Morse and Lewis, Oxford blends medieval charm with the buzz of a modern city. The city may have given her name to everything from a prestigious dictionary to a bitter marmalade, but it is the university that most people associate with the town. Over the past eight centuries eminent scientists, philosophers, authors, archbishops, explorers and politicians have emerged from its ivory towers.
You can walk across Oxford’s medieval heart in less than 20 minutes, though on your way don’t be surprised to find a famous face crossing your path, or to catch yourself eavesdropping on snatches of conversation that range from philosophy to politics to physics. Yet despite its lofty, intellectual air there’s a modern dynamism about the city, which bustles with small businesses, intriguing cafes, quirky shops and, nowadays, some of the best hotels and restaurants in the country.
When to go?

There is no best time to visit Oxford, as every season has its charms. In early spring the trees of North Oxford droop with blossom, though May is when Oxford perhaps looks her loveliest. The trees are in full leaf, the students are in celebratory mood and the famous “Bumps” (boat race) is taking place along the river. In summer the student throngs melt away, leaving the city to residents and tourists, and you can punt and picnic on the rivers Thames (or Isis, as it’s known here) and Cherwell.

Oxford has thrived not only because of its university but due to its connections. Unlike its great rival Cambridge, out in the austere eastern Fens, Oxford sits handily in the centre of England, with easy access to London and the international airports of Heathrow and Gatwick.

There’s an air of lazy romance about the city, although it’s also the time when crowds of boisterous foreign students clog the shopping streets. Autumn, when the university students return and the trees are burnished bronze, is mournfully beautiful and Christmas, when the streets are eerily quiet and the medieval buildings frosted in snow, can be magical.

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London in your lunch break: London Eye

London in your lunch break: London Eye
Take your lunch break at...

The London Eye at the South Bank. Hardly an unheard of destination, but this popular viewing point over London has recently launched an interactive guide to about 50 of the many attractions visible from its heights.
Six tablts in each pod offer instant context to the sights below. With screens designed to reflect the view before you, changing with the wheel’s position (that's the theory, at least – it didn't always work in practice, I found), you can find out trivia just by pressing the touch screen in front of you.

Not only did I find out that Battersea Power Station is Europe’s largest brick building, I discovered that it was designed by the same architect behind the classic red phone boxes – and there are many more titbits of information like this.
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Best of Britain: hotels, walks and attractions

Best of Britain: hotels, walks and attractions:
Brighton
Our comprehensive guide to the best of Britain, from hotels and pubs to walking routes and unusual attractions.
Brighton manages to be both hip and quaint in a very British seaside kind of way; it’s also a shopping mecca.
Knoydart Peninsula, Highlands

Often described as Britain's last wilderness, the remote and rugged Knoydart Peninsula is cut off by road from the rest of the Scottish mainland by a ring of forbidding mountains. Those who do make the sea crossing from Mallaig to get there will be rewarded by pristine highland scenery in all its glory. There are walks to suit all fitness levels, ranging from gentle coastal meanders with views across to Skye to more challenging ascents of munros and corbetts such as Ladhar Bheinn and Sgurr Coire Choinnichean.

The latter gives spectacular views across the peninsula and conveniently starts and finishes at the Old Forge, the only pub in the tiny village of Inverie (population 80). The weather this far north can be unpredictable and those who are not familiar with this terrain are advised to use the services of the local rangers who run guided walks.

Alternatively they could sign up for a tour with an adventure company such as Wilderness Scotland , which operates winter walking holidays with tuition on using crampons and an ice axe.

Edinburgh city break guide

Edinburgh city break guide:
The joy of Edinburgh is that you never need an excuse to visit. There is always something going on, something different to experience, something new to catch your eye. If you only think about the city at Festival time or Hogmanay, boy, are you missing out. You can get high just gazing at the architecture, from the craggy Castle to the mysteries of its Old Town medieval closes, from the Georgian splendour of the New Town to the contemporary tang of Leith. Then weather there’s the clutch of galleries – all nicely do-able in size – and fanfare of museums and attractions, offering a tantalising choice for even the pickiest family.

In truth, you don’t need to do the “arts-culture-history” thing to get a zing out of Edinburgh. Mosey around the streets – particularly just off-centre, say in Stockbridge or around Grassmarket – and you’ll chance on a quirky shop, artisan deli or laidback café. This is a city perfect for browsing, sitting back, or just doing nothing but blessing your cleverness for finding this little place. There are five Michelin-starred restaurants alone, while drinking options range from whisky-fuddled pubs to designer bars.And did we mention food?

Yes, it can get busy; yes, it can rain. But this city pushes so many buttons, you’d have to be a frigid Philistine to visit and remain unmoved.

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Viking Denmark

Viking Denmark
There is, apparently, no place in Denmark where one can be further than 50km from the sea – a perfect homeland for the Vikings, whose impact was widely felt in Europe and beyond between the 9th and 11th centuries.

Adept seamen and shipwrights and able to muster considerable bodies of armed men, they travelled as far as Newfoundland in the west, and the Caspian sea in the East, taking their rich traditions of artistic expression, story-telling and building skills with them.
This journey through their homelands will start at their southern land defence, the Danevirke, and will explore the evidence for their towns, their burial monuments and, perhaps most importantly, the remains of their ships, including the chance to sail in a replica at Roskilde. John Hines is particularly knowledgeable about the Viking legends and sagas, and he will weave these into the archaeological journey.
We also see fine examples of more recent traditional architecture, such as Roskilde’s lovely cathedal.
Whilst the focus of the tour is the Vikings, it would be hard to pass by some impressive discoveries dating to earlier periods, such as the famous Iron Age bog bodies, preserved by the wet terrain, and the richly decorated Gundestrup cauldron of the 1st century BC (in the National Museum).

Umbria -Archaeology in the Hill Towns

Umbria -Archaeology in the Hill Towns
Instead of concentrating on the medieval churches and their paintings, we go further back to tribes of pre-Roman Umbria and the gradual increase in importance of the area during the Roman period.
This is an unusual way of looking at the beautiful area of Umbria, home to the classic landscapes of tall cypress trees, ancient hilltop towns and olive groves which, for many travellers, represent the essence of central Italy.


The Iron Age Umbrian tribes inhabited independent cities which were as likely to be at war with each other as with outsiders. They shared a common language, related to Latin, but more closely related to that of the Samnite tribes to the south.

In 220BC, Caius Flaminius built a great road through Umbria which linked Rome to the East coast of Italy. This road had a dramatic effect on the communities of Umbria; those situated close by could take advantage of it and flourish, and those further away declined. In the turmoil of Rome’s civil wars, control of the road became important and Umbria was turned into a battlefield.
The trip is based in a single hotel in an attractively renovated fortified 15th century house on the plain west of Assisi.


Our tour traces the changing fortunes of the Umbrian landscape, the development and flourishing of Roman settlements in the valley, sited for ease of communication and trade, and the later creation of hill-towns sited for defence.

Tunisia Carthage to the Sahara

Tunisia Carthage to the Sahara
The magnificent sites of northern Tunisia, the wide rural landscapes and the extraordinary artistry achieved by the north African mosaicists are described on the previous pages but yet more awaits those who have time to explore Tunisia further.

Our onward journey south leaves the Mediterranean climate behind. One notices the olive trees spaced further and further apart as they compete for the scarce moisture, until we arrive in the strange white landscapes of the chotts - the area of great salt lakes which divides the country in two - and enter the fringes of the great Sahara desert.


On the way, we continue to follow the story of the Roman world into the realms of its military past, climbing the foothills of the Aures Mountains to seek out the only legionary fortress in the whole of this vast province at Haidra, and exploring the empty landscapes of the south in search of traces of the frontier zone.
We drive south into the sand-sea desert in order to experience the real Sahara and to stay at a remote (but very comfortable) camp site under the stars.
In the semi-desert regions of the south, fortified farmsteads (Ksour) were a feature of the landscape from Roman times right through until the recent past, their remarkable Berber architecture demonstrating the ingenuity of the local people in adapting to harsh living conditions.

The Peloponnese from Homer to hadrian & beyond

The Peloponnese from Homer to hadrian & beyond
This is the land of Homer’s heroes and the great Bronze Age citadels from which they came. The home cities of Agamemnon, Menelaus and Nestor help us to put the Trojan War into its Greek context as a meeting with the world of the Hittites of Asia Minor, at a time when Greek colonists were hungry for land, and introducing their way of life to new territories across the sea.

In later times the Peloponnese was also home to major cities and sanctuaries of Classical Greece and, once again this part of Greece took centre stage in ancient world politics as the Peloponnesian War of the late 5th century BC brought the power of Athens to an end, and changed western civilisation forever.
Perhaps this was the memory immortalised by Homer in his epic poems. Certainly many aspects of the Mycenean culture rediscovered by Heinrich Schliemann clearly echo the world described by Homer.

We finish in Athens, and now spend two days here seeing not only the National Museum, but also the new Acropolis Museum, both with incomparable collections which illustrate all aspects of life and death in Ancient Greece.

Starting with the oracle at Delphi, as all great journeys should, we cross to the Peloponnese and travel through a beautiful countryside of mountains, plains and seascapes. Your journey follows the course of history through the coming of Rome, and then early Christianity, visiting the impressive Byzantine and Frankish city of Mistra.

The Dordogne Prehistoric Cave Art

The Dordogne Prehistoric Cave Art
From the fierce debate which raged during the 19th century about the age and authenticity of decorated caves, to the most recent scientific research, the Dordogne has been at the centre of study of prehistory for many years.

The art in question belongs to the period approximately between 40,000 BC to 10,000 BC. To many, this period (known as the late Pleistocene) is so remote that it is difficult to envisage man as anything more than a ‘squat grunting savage’. However, we know that primitive forms of human had been making stone tools for more than 2 million years, and that Homo sapiens, the modern form of humankind to which we belong, evolved nearly 100,000 years ago.


Travel Between that time and the phase of cave decoration, Neanderthal man and his associated stone industries had come and gone, so that by 35,000 BC an advanced society of hunting and gathering humans of modern form was sufficiently well-established to combat the rigours of the final extreme cold phase of the Ice Age.

With the amelioration of climate after 10,000 BC, an artistic tradition that had lasted an almost unbelieveable 25,000 years ceased.

South-west Turkey mountain cities and tombs by the sea

South-west Turkey mountain cities and tombs by the sea:
Hidden in the Taurus Mountain of south-western Turkey are some spectacular Classical cities, inaccessible and forgotten until recent roads, archaeological survey and excavation returned them to public view.


These mountainous cities of the ancient region of Pisidia have a long history, being mentioned in Hittite texts and by Herodotus. The remarkably good living their hardy inhabitants eked out of the seemingly inhospitable terrain saw expression in much monumental building during the Hellenistic and Roman periods. Their subsequent decline, as a result of earthquake, plague and changing economies, causes modern visitors to wonder how such civic splendour could thrive so far from anywhere.
Few visitors venture there, and the rewards for those who do are outstanding ruins in breath-taking settings, with the sense of discovery enjoyed by 19th century travellers.
This is a journey through some spectacular ancient cities in this corner of south-western Turkey, with exceptional mountain and coastal scenery, and some rough walks.

Across the mountains lies the World Heritage site of Hierapolis, splendid spa city established by the Attalids, where the limestone formations made by the hot medicinal springs have been named Pamukkale - ‘cotton castle’ - by the Turks. From here we continue to the Lycian coast, and the ruined cities of Xanthos, Patara and Telmessos.

Rome to Ravenna Following Emperors

Rome to Ravenna Following Emperors, Popes and Kings on the Via Flaminia
An exciting journey through a swathe of Italy’s history and archaeology, from coast to coast across Italy and over the Apennine mountains to link the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic coasts. This is the route followed by the Via Flaminia, the ancient consular road that was the preferred means of crossing the mountainous spine of the peninsula for Roman imperial officials, ultimately leading them onwards to Gaul and the Danube frontier. The road traversed the peaks and valleys, penetrating the highest mountain via the Furlo pass, a road tunnel that is still used.

The towns along its route were centres of a rich economic and social life. Outliers of the Samnite world, their strategic positions brought them wealth, and in the Middle Ages this was invested in some extraordinary architecture and art. The Lombards of Spoleto, former Byzantine mercenaries in the 6th century AD, became one of the major powers of Italy in the Dark Ages.
This route continued in importance in later eras. It was the delicate jugular vein that linked together the last vestiges of Roman Italy following the Barbarian invasions, and when the Popes seized power in central Italy at the time of the Emperor Charlemagne in the 8th century it held together the Papal States, the so-called Republic of St. Peter.
The road finally descends to the Adriatic, and the coastal city of Ravenna where the final western Emperors, Ostrogothic Kings and Byzantine governors built splendid mosaic-filled churches and palaces behind the impenetrable dykes and marshes. The cities were minor centres of the Renaissance too. The Dukes of Urbino were major patrons of artists like Piero della Francesca.

Prehistoric Morocco early rock art

Prehistoric Morocco early rock art
All over the world, in remote and seemingly inhospitable landscapes, people over thousands of years have left physical renderings of what was important to them. In the foothills of the Atlas and anti-atlas mountains of southern Morocco lie boulders and fractured rock strata covered with incised animals, some typical of the Savannah and some domesticated species, as well as enigmatic symbols whose meanings remain obscure.

Over 250 sites have been identified in this region, and antelope, gazelle, ostrich, elephant rhino and lion, as well as cattle, horses and camels have all been immortalised on rocky boulders in an area from which the real animals have long disappeared.

This all provides the focus for a most unusual journey through southern Morocco. It focuses on the rich legacy of rock art sites, but even those with no interest in the art could not help but be impressed with the journey, the landscapes and the glimpses of contemporary life in this remote region.
Scholars today have attempted to classify these into groups on stylistic grounds, to date them using science and what is known of environmental conditions at various times, and to guess at their meaning/

The route follows non-tarmac roads and wheel tracks, and all needs to be covered in 4x4s rather than a coach. You will see extraordinary oasis towns, with gold, pink and orange walls which blend beautifully with the desert colours, impressive mountain scenery, pomegranate and palm groves.